Food profile - Peter Street Kitchen, Manchester
PUBLISHED: 00:00 04 December 2018
The new restaurant at Manchester's five star Radisson Blu Edwardian Manchester Hotel was always going to be a little bit special, but The Peter Street Kitchen is truly something else, says Kate Houghton
I admit, when I learned that they were bringing a Mexican Japanese restaurant to Manchester my brain did a little wobble; surely as cultures go these two couldn’t be further apart, and as culinary cultures, how on earth would they bring the two together in any relevant way? I am glad to say I was very wrong.
The menu is presented with a choice of dishes from each country on different sides of the spread, so you’re able to pick and choose from individual dishes with no wild and wacky fusions to confuse. The options complement each other beautifully, resulting in no desire to stick to one side or the other. Each one is a fabulous contemporary take on a traditional classic, designed to charm the modern palate, not challenge it. The perfect approach for a venue that has clearly set its cards out as the new place-to-be and be-seen in town.
Starting with a dish of lemon butter and chilli sea salt edamame seemed a good place to begin my journey, accompanied by a Yuzu Osaka cocktail, a fabulous thing constructed from grapefruit vodka, yuzu sake and soda water. Deep yum. I am beyond unfamiliar with Japanese food, so enlisted our fabulous server for some help. It has to be said, the level of service here outstanding, there are staff everywhere, ready to leap to your every immediate need. We were advised to select two to three plates each and share, as the best way to enjoy a fully rounded experience. All Mike asked was that include the Seared Beef Takami with Truffled Ponzu and after that it was left to me.
Each dish is brought as it’s ready, fresh and hot and delicious and our first to arrive was the Mayan-spiced marinated chicken with cilantro, black lime, garlic salsa and cayenne pepper mayo. Wrapped in a small soft taco, this was just delicious, no one flavour taking precedence over another, but all queuing patiently to give you a twirl. Next to arrive was Warm Wagyu beef with dried chilli and yuzu mayo, wrapped in a warm flatbread. This didn’t pack the punch I was expecting, rather it all came together in a hot and sweet mouthful, backed up by fabulous beef textures. Our third dish was from the Mexican selection: Crispy duck and pomegranate ensalada with papaya chilli dressing. Fresh and ducky, with oodles of flavour and texture; quite fabulous.
The two final dishes arrived together: the Beef Takami and Goma-glazed roasted aubergine, which Mike had raised a sceptical eyebrow at when I chose it. Oh. My. Life. The beef was a revelation; fine slices of seared beef, rose pink from edge to centre, dressed in spring onion and slivers of deep fried crisps of garlic, sitting in a pool of sweet sour ponzu dressing. Almost impossible to describe; every flavour sensation is there, perfectly balanced to come together in a positively joyous experience. My joy was added to by Mike’s reaction to the aubergine…utter delight. He’s a beef man, for him, ordering the aubergine was my nod to ‘five a day’. Coated in barely there tempura batter, the wedges of aubergine were dressed in a sesame dip (goma) that was both sweet and savoury and just the most perfect accompaniment to the fruit, which collapsed into a soft, melt-in-the-mouth delight the moment you bit into it.
I had chosen just the five dishes because I wanted a pudding. Oh, but where to start? The menu is filled with words I have never seen before, and while Google is useful, the waiter was far more so. We ended with Kuro goma cheesecake with hassaku orange sorbet and the Chocolate Bento Box. Kuro goma is black sesame, not your usual first thought for a cheesecake, but it should be. Utterly blissful, let me assure you. The Bento box contained possibly the best chocolate fondant we have ever had the joy of. How the chef combines such lusciousness with lightness is a mystery that definitely needs further investigation!
A fabulous night out, in a fabulous, vibrant, exciting venue in central Manchester. Pop it on your list of must-go’s for 2019, it’s not to be missed.