Food profile - The Bridge, Prestbury

PUBLISHED: 00:00 15 November 2018

Burts blue cheese mousse Credit: Mike Allen

Burts blue cheese mousse Credit: Mike Allen

Copyright: Mikle allen

Kate Houghton returns to a old favourite.

The Bridge has been a long-term, if infrequent, dining favourite of mine, so I was naturally curious to learn what the recent change of ownership might mean for this ancient resting house. Good things, it turns out!

Recently acquired by the Flat Cap Hotel group, who have done marvellous things with The Courthouse in Knutsford and The Vicarage near Holmes Chapel, a much-needed refurbishment has created a lovely dining space that neatly balances its ancient lines with contemporary comforts. And as for the menu…it’s rather good.

The group’s Executive Chef has created a fine offering of contemporary dishes mingled with traditional ones, from Seared Scallops with Sticky Beef and Onion Fritters to English Fillet of Beef, cooked sous vide. I started with simply beautiful Kiln Salmon Blinis; piled high with sweet salmon flakes in crème fraiche with chives and capers and wrapped with a rich circle of plump smoked salmon, dressed with apple cider vinegar. It was absolutely delicious. Mike opted for Burts Blue Cheese Mousse with pear, caramelised walnuts and redcurrants. I sneaked a little and it was a perfect balance of flavours and textures in one very pretty serving.

We both went to the grill menu for our main course, Buttercross Farm pork steak for me and sirloin steak for Mike. Pork is ridiculously underrated as a standalone meat and here it was served cooked to soft perfection, on the bone, with my choice of a fine peppercorn sauce. Mike’s steak came the absolutely definition of medium rare, clearly rested to the minute and delicious with it.

Now, I think the chef might be a bit of a pudding lover, as the dessert menu is rather the wonderland of delights. My choice of Pecan Pie, with hazelnut pastry, praline cream (oh gosh, so good!) poached fig and caramelised rice crisp, with a serve of Baileys ice-cream, was mind-blowingly good – and perfectly pitched by size too. Mike chose the Bridge Snowball – Chestnut mousse with meringue crumble, white chocolate ganache and chocolate sponge. Beautiful!

When new blood takes over from old, the risks run high, but here I believe nobody is set to be disappointed. The service is excellent, the surroundings are comfortable and the food, well, I need to go back – there’s a sticky toffee pudding with salted caramel parfait calling my name…

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