Restaurant review: Mount Street Restaurant and Bar at The Midland Hotel, Manchester

PUBLISHED: 14:50 08 October 2020

Chicken and bacon pie
Photo: Stefan Zander

Chicken and bacon pie Photo: Stefan Zander


Dine fine in Manchester as The Midland re-opens their newest restaurant, Mount Street

Steak and chips at Mount Street Restaurant & Bar
Photo: Stefan ZanderSteak and chips at Mount Street Restaurant & Bar Photo: Stefan Zander

The restaurant formerly known as Mr Cooper’s, at The Midland Hotel, has re-opened with a new name, a new interior and a new, distinctly British, food and drink offering. We went along to try it all out.

Going out has become something of a treat, with a new ceremony to go through before leaving the house: wallet – check; phone – check; mask – check. On arrival at the new Mount Street Restaurant, as soon as we sit and remove the mask, it feels great – relaxed, informal and safe.

Our waiter, Vlad (he’s from Transylvania, which made me strangely happy) is filled with enthusiasm for the new menu, designed by Executive Chef Brian Spark, and wastes no time recommending that we try the poppy seed sourdough with ‘the most amazing butter you will ever experience.’ He’s right, the walnut butter that accompanies the really delicious home-made, warm and crusty bread is just incredible. My husband and I almost fought over the last scrapings it’s so good. So good in fact we have to be reminded to place our order. Vlad is patient and very happy to participate in our decision-making process, finally helping us settle on cauliflower soup and chicken terrine to start and spatchcock chicken and the ribeye steak for our main course.

My soup was so good I stopped speaking (rare for me) until I had scraped the bowl clean. Luckily for Mike, there were diners opposite, or I may have been tempted to actually lick it clean. Soup is just too prosaic a term for this autumnal ambrosia; unmistakeably cauliflower, it was thick and luscious with none of the graininess so often associated with this vegetable. I seriously considered sacking the chicken and having a second bowl. Mike’s terrine was just as hoped, he tells me, but after a quick dip of the soup, he admitted I had won the starter competition.

Mount Street Restaurant & Bar
Photo: Stefan ZanderMount Street Restaurant & Bar Photo: Stefan Zander

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My spatchcock chicken was an entire small bird, beautifully roasted. Crispy skin with meat still so soft and moist I had to ask how it was cooked. It’s down to the new BBQ and smoker kit introduced by Brian Spark, apparently. As was the “melt in the mouth, literally” ribeye Mike enjoyed, instructing me to write an endless list of superlatives to describe it. The beef comes from Yorkshire Limousine cattle and is aged for 28 days before the hotel’s in-house butcher selects the cuts he wants. It was accompanied by a slightly whimsical mini Brioche bun containing four truffle fries, which seemed slightly unnecessary, but looked pretty. Mike opted for hispi cabbage in an almond yoghurt dressing as a side dish, which I didn’t love but he raved about, then asked why I never cooked cabbage. Thanks Brian. We shared a bowl of the aforementioned truffle fries and they lived up to every expectation. So good in fact that pudding wasn’t an option for either of us...

I chose a glass of white to accompany my meal, from a sensibly sized wine list. I could choose from three sizes of glass (the driver’s is 125ml, in case you’re interested), a 500ml carafe or a full bottle. That’s smart thinking, that is. It makes it so easy for the diner and you can both enjoy your preference and whichever suits your meal best.

We may be living under restrictions at the moment, but that doesn’t mean you can’t still go out and enjoy yourself... and at Mount Street there’s a great deal to enjoy.

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