Food review: Les Deux, Alderley Edge
PUBLISHED: 07:03 17 April 2020
Before the shutdown, some divine pizza was enjoyed at Les Deux in Alderley Edge - and you can also enjoy it at home right now
Sometimes, there is nothing at all that beats a freshly cooked pizza, hot and sizzling from the oven, with cheese that stretches as you bite into it and a chewy, crispy, flavoursome crust. This kind of pizza is distressingly hard to find, however, so imagine my delight when a new pizza bar opened up in Alderley Edge, with a wood-fired oven looked after by a young man whose sole task is to construct and bake its patrons’ chosen pizzas. As he works in full view of said patrons, you can even watch as he selects the ball of dough for your very own pizza, before stretching and shaping it prior to the addition of toppings.
Les Deux is the baby of two experienced and successful restaurateurs who have come together to launch this new venture. Their ethos is, they say, all about fresh flavours – both classic and original – locally supplied ingredients as much as possible, and creating a warm, relaxed and inviting atmosphere. It’s a tiny place, with tables crammed close together, very much as you find in any pizza joint in Rome, to be fair. The pizza oven is in clear sight, with the constantly shifting flames adding to the overall atmosphere.
I was very excited to see burrata on the menu, that deliciously soft, creamy cheese that once tasted is never forgotten. At Les Deux, you can choose from three options – with pesto, with n’duja paste and with truffle. I opted for Pretty Green Eyes: pesto-injected, served with Pane Carasau (the thinnest and crispiest of flatbread) and brushed with basil oil. It’s a man-sized portion, so our server encouraged us to choose a second sharing plate to accompany it. We didn’t need any encouragement, opting for the charcuterie plate, a dazzling selection of Wagyu beef salami, beef pepperoni, prosciutto crudo, speck and fennel salami. So, so good. The burrata was sheer heaven, with a huge dollop of freshly made pesto that they should really consider bottling to sell. The meats were fabulous. It was a flashback to summer days in Italy, when lunches consist of everything good that is sold in the local deli. Sheer heaven.
When it came to choosing our main courses, Mike went straight to the Global-inspired pizza options, where he struggled to decide between the Wag Gwaan - Wagyu beef salami, crème fraiche, cippolini onions and salsa verde - and the Oh Elloooooo - sticky beef, truffle oil, tomato, mozzarella and parmesan. He eventually plumped for the former, and when it came decreed it absolutely outstanding. I chose the The Parmigiana, from the Classics menu - oven-roasted aubergine, tomato, roasted cherry tomato, basil and fior di latte. It was delicious. The base is bubbled and crispy yet soft and chewy, the topping cooked to perfection. And if you can’t manage it all, pop it in a box for lunch the next day!
We finished in style, with an Affogato to share – hot espresso coffee poured over sweet vanilla ice-cream. Simple but so, so good. It’s said that there’s nothing original in this world, and it seems that the team behind Les Deux have recognised the wisdom of this expression. Take what’s great from the very best of pizza bars, maintain a dedication to fresh, fine flavours and serve it up in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere, with no frills, fuss or fluff. It works beautifully, and we will most certainly go back as soon as we are able.
In the meantime, Les Deux is offering a takeaway service and is also available through Deliveroo. Phew!